Pesto Parodi, Genoese Pesto made using a pestle and mortar

How to make Genoese pesto al mortaio (using a pestle and mortar)

In Genoa every pesto is different. It’s difficult, if not impossible, to find two which are the same. The characteristics of the ingredients used, the proportions of them and the method used, the basil especially, is unequivocally characteristic of its place of origin,    and these factors mean that every pesto is unique.

There are, however, some good rules to follow when making Genoese pesto:

1. the basil must be Genoese Basil DOP
2. the basil leaves must not be damaged when washing and drying them; if damaged the essential oils in the veins on the upper surface of the leaf risk oxidation and consequently the leaf darkens and some of the characteristic flavour is lost
3. the oil must be delicately fruity, sweet and ripe; used to combine the ingredients but above all to intensify the fragrance of the basil, acting as a solvent for the aromatic substances, and to counterbalance the spicy sensation of the garlic, with its sweetness. Extra Virgin Olive Oil DOP from the Ligurian Riviera is the most suitable
4. the traditional recipe requires garlic
5. the cheese must be matured: the Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese for at least 2 years and the Parmesan for at least 12 months
6. the pesto must be made at room temperature and in as little time as possible to avoid oxidation which could alter its flavour and colour

Preparation of Pesto with a pestle and mortar
Below, you’ll find tips on how to make pesto with a pestle and mortar from Luciana, 2007 World Champion of Genoese Pesto al Mortaio.

Wash the basil leaves in plenty of cold water; leave them to dry on a tea towel or some kitchen paper – you can also use, with care, a hand-operated salad spinner. During this process pay attention not to break, crush or rub the basil leaves for the reasons described above.

You need to use a marble mortar and a wooden pestle when making Genoese Pesto.

Once clean, crush the garlic and pine nuts in the mortar until they are creamy. Now add the totally-dry basil leaves a few at a time, and then a few grains of salt. From now on, don’t beat the mixture, but use the pestle with a delicate, constant movement, rotating it against the sides of the mortar; this movement is necessary to extract the essential oils from the veins of the basil leaves, which are therefore not broken but rubbed against the side of the mortar.
Continue this movement until the sauce is homogeneous and well-mixed, and the basil is very fine. Add the Parmesan and the Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese. Slowly add the Extra Virgin Olive Oil and stir again with a wooden spoon until the cheese is mixed in.
If you aren’t going to eat the pesto immediately, put it in a glass or plastic jar, cover it with a layer of oil and keep it in the fridge.

This is only one of the ways of making pesto; it is therefore possible to find different methods and techniques.

If the pesto is too thick when you are about to eat it, put it in a bowl and dilute it with one or more spoonfuls of the hot water which you used to cook the pasta, until the consistency is correct. Then it’s ready to eat. Enjoy your meal!!

Quantities for 6 people
55g leaves of Genoese Basil D.O.P.
20g Italian pine nuts
1 or 2 clove of garlic
40g mature parmesan
10g Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese
A few grains of coarse salt
55g Extra virgin olive oil from the Ligurian Riviera